How good is the Capital of Alpinism as a ski resort?
Chamonix: often hailed as the beating heart of alpinism and a crown jewel among the world’s ski resorts. But why?
Nestled strategically between the Swiss and Italian borders, Chamonix dazzles not just with its legendary ski terrains suitable for every skill set, but with its breathtaking landscapes dominated by the mighty Mont Blanc.
Beyond the slopes, the town of Chamonix is an alpine wonder, teeming with exquisite dining, luxurious stays, and countless activities that promise days of delight even for those without skis. For the adrenaline-seekers, it boasts Europe’s steepest descents and the iconic La Vallée Blanche, the world’s most exhilarating off-piste challenge. But, is Chamonix truly the ski paradise it’s painted to be for everyone? Dive into our comprehensive review as we dissect the Chamonix Valley, highlight the must-visit ski runs, the finest après-ski spots, guide you to the right ski pass, and unravel everything you should consider before embarking on your Chamonix adventure.
Chamonix Valley ski areas and ski passes.
Chamonix is located 1 hour and 15 minutes drive southeast of Geneva.
The Valley of Chamonix lies on the Mont Blanc massif’s north face and stretches from southwest to northeast.
The Chamonix ski pass includes 112km of slopes in 4 different ski areas, 2 of which are connected.
Here are the ski areas from northeast to south-west:
Balme -Tour-Vallorcine
Balme-Tour-Vallorcine ski map 2023
Two villages are connected to this area. Le Toure, the most remote village in the Chamonix valley, 11 km from Chamonix, is one, and Vallorcine, 15 km from Chamonix, is in another valley close to the Swiss border. We recommend staying in Le Tour because of the La Vormine beginners’ area at the foot of the ski area and the new Charamillon fast gondola.
This area consists of 29 km of slopes. 13 km of easy blue slopes, and 16 km of intermediate red slopes. It is the most suited area in the Chamonix Valley for beginners.
There are nice views of the whole Valley from here. The highest point is at Tete de Balme or Blame Peak, 2250m.
The lowest part is on Valorcine, 1264m. The height of Le Tour village is 1462m.
Les Grands Montets
Grand Montets ski map 2023
Skiers and snowboarders that revel in steep slopes and consistently good snow conditions would be better off at the north-facing Les Grands Montets, located just over the village of Argentière, 9 km from Chamonix.
This terrain offers the valley’s most challenges on the slopes and off-piste, except the ultra-extreme lines on the north face of Aiguille du Midi.
Les Grands Montets has a total of 29 km of connected ski runs. 6 km of blue runs, 9 km of red runs and 14 km of black runs. As a matter of fact, since the fire on the Grands Montets cablecar in 2018, the number of km of black runs reduced to 5, and the total length to 20 km of runs.
The new cable car from Argentiere to Lognan that was also burned in the 2018 fire and the new 3s Grands Montets gondola will open in the 24/25 season. The highest point in the Grands Montets will be from the 2024/25 season at the top station of the new s3 gondola at 3275m. The highest point currently is at the top of Bochard gondola at 2765m.
The lowest point is at Argentiere, 1252m. Pay attention that the black slopes here are actually off-piste or ski routes in the best-case scenario.
There are some blues around the Plan Jordan gondola top station and a nice boardercross ski movie attraction.
Brevent & Flegere
Brevent Flegere ski map 2023
The last 2 areas, Brevent and Flegere are connected, and we will treat them as one with the numbers. Both areas are south-faced and therefore get the sun most of the day.
Flegere, the northern one, is accessed by the Flegere gondola in the village of Les Praz(1060m).
The height of the top station of the gondola, La Flegere, is 1894m.
The highest point in this area is 2496m. You can ski down to Les Praz, but it is a black piste, and the snow conditions can be problematic.
Flegere is connected by a two-way cable car to Brevent.
The highest point at Brevent is Le Brevent Peak, at 2525m, with a fantastic view of Chamonix and Mont Blanc.
Chamonix (1106m) is connected to this area with the Planpraz gondola.
The only way to ski back to Chamonix is with a black run with bed snow conditions.
The views of Mont Blanc and the ragged peaks around here are amazing.
This is the only place in Europe you can see almost a 4km vertical drop in front of you.
Like Grand Montes, these ski areas are recommended for advanced skiers, although there is a network of beginner slopes across the lower elevations around the tree-line area.
In Total, this united ski area has 56 km of runs. 11km are blue(or green), 25km red, and 20 km are black slopes.
You must understand that many red runs here would be marked as black in many other resorts. Take note that the black slopes here and in Grands Montets are, in practice, off-piste or ski routes.
The villages in Chamonix Valley are connected by a network of efficient ski buses that are FOC for skipass holders.
Mont Blanc unlimited ski pass
Les Houches ski map 2023
Evasion-Mont Blanc-Megeve ski map 2023
Mont Blanc unlimited skipass ski map 2023
Les Houches
There is a 4th ski area, Les Houches, 7 km southwest of Chamonix. It is excluded from the Chamonix ski pass but included in the Mont Blanc Unlimited skipass.
We strongly recommend buying the Mont Blanc unlimited pass for skiers that come here for a week’s holiday. For an extra 55€( for a 6-day skipass compared to the Chamonix ski pass), you not only get access to Les Hoches, including the use of the Les Hoches shuttle, but you can also ski in glamorous Megeve with its 263 km of connected ski runs and use the free shuttle to Megeve which take 45 minutes and reservation for a place in the shuttle is needed, If you want to learn about Megeve ski area, you can check out our amazing review here. (coming soon)
If you come by car, you can also ski in Les Contamines, with 120km of slopes and a 45-minute drive from Chamonix.
Also included in the ski pass is Courmayeur on the Italian side of the Mont Blanc
And two days of skiing at the term of the ski pass validity in Crans-Montana, Switzerland.
Even for total beginners, buying the Mont Blanc Unlimited skipass is recommended. It is because, in this skipass, you can go up to the Aiguille du Midi, a must-do Attraction here in Chamonix we will elaborate on later in the review. Round trip ride on the Aiguille du Midi cable car costs 73€, so you can save 18€.
You also get free admission to the swimming pool, Ice rink and other attractions in Chamonix, like the Montenvers-Mer de Glace attraction we will show you later in the review.
All these benefits come with a 2-day or more ski pass.
After this important tip, let’s continue with the Chamonix Valley ski areas review:
Les Houches or Les Houches – Saint Gervais ski area is a northwest shoulder of the Mont Blanc. Here are the closest groomers to Mont Blanc in the Chamonix Valley. It has 55km of slopes with unique views from the northwest on the Mont Blanc and west of Chamonix.
25km of slopes are blue, 25 red, and 5km are black. The 5km black is the most famous run in the Valley, The Kandahar, part of the Audi FIS world cup circuit.
The lowest point in the ski area is the bottom of the Bellevue, and Prarion lifts in Les Houches village at 1000m.
The highest point is Prarion Peak, at 1900m.
Like the Balme-Tour-Vallorcine area, Les Houches is great for beginners and intermediates. It is the best place in the Valley for storms because most runs are protected with trees.
Chamonix Valley’s recommended ski slopes
For beginners
Les Hoches: La cha blue run- easy blue run with views to Sallanches
Balme -Tour-Vallorcine: Les Alpages blue run-nice cruise facing Chamonix Valley from the east.
For intermediates
Les Hoches:
Aillouds– long blue run from top to bottom of Prarion Gondola.
In the upper part, you traverse to join the Vosa slope, where you have the closest look at the Mont Blanc towards the end of the Vosa slope, you turn left into a winding run that goes down to the Pririon lift base. In the lower part, you ski between chalets.
Col Voza red run. Short yet wide slope, best for Carving, with amazing views of Mont Blanc and Chamonix Valley
Les Grand Montets:
Buchard red run: the most famous run in Grands Montets and the highest altitude available until Grands Montets 3S gondola reopens.long curved run with lots of off-piste adventures around it.
Balme -Tour-Vallorcine:
Aiguillette red run – uncrowded speed cruising
Les Caisets red run -the home run to Le Tour. Excellent for Carving. The new Charamillion gondola makes it easy to repeat.
Brevent – Flegere:
Cornu red run – great run in Brevent with beautiful views of the Mont Blanc and Aiguille du Midi. Except for a narrow part of the midsection, it is pretty wide. It ends after penetrating the treeline and joining Blanchots Blue Run.
For advanced
Brevent – Flegere:
Lachenal – marked as a red slope in Flegere, but actually a black run, especially the upper part.
Lachental offers fantastic off-piste around and views of Le Praz, Aiguille du Midi, and Mont Blanc.
The run becomes easier around the treeline, turning left into a blue run.
After around 200 meters,The first turn right will take you to Brevent, continue straight will take you to Evettes lift.
Les Hoches:
Kandahar- a black FIS world cup run.the most famous groomer in the valley. It is 3 km long, with almost 900 meters of vertical drop.
It begins on the Kandahar chairlift and then turns left at the la Cassure jump; you can bypass it from the right.
Not long later, it curves right towards the famous Le Goulet jump. You have two bypasses from the left. Use them if it is your first time.
After these two walls, the run continues all the way to Les Houces. Just before the end, exit right to the blue run towards Bellevue cable car; otherwise, you will have to take a long walk. This run ia AKA La Verte des Houches.
Free Ride ski in Chamonix
After reviewing the pists in the valley, we must talk about off-pists.
The world’s longest and most famous off-piste run is here. Vallee Blanch.
It is almost 14 km long. You exit the Aiguille du Midi top station at 3800m.
The first part is a 15-minute walk on a razor-sharp ridge. Not for the heart-fainted. Only the fixed rope line stops you from being blown by the wind into the abyss. You don’t want to linger here too long.
After that, the slope to the right becomes less steep. The first part is a smooth south-facing ride.
Some hundred meters after you pass Gros Rognon peak to your left, you turn east and enter the more treacherous parts where you ski within the glacier crevasses.
It is more than recommended to take a guide for this adventure. It is more dangerous than difficult, but you must be in shape because of the low oxygen in the upper parts and the long physical endurance and control of turning in deep snow, black runs and big and long Mogul fields. The guidance costs around 150€ per person. It also includes a harness and avalanche transceiver.
The finish line is next to the ice cave at the bottom edge of the glacier.
From here, you must climb almost 600 stairs to the Mer De Glace gondola base.
At the top station, you can get a snack or a drink and enjoy the views of the Vallee Blanche Aiguille du Dru and Aiguille Verte while waiting for the Historic Montenvers tram to take you to Chamonix.
You can add the James Bond track(the world is not enough ski scene) when there is a lot of snow. Continue skiing further than the glacier bottom, climb around 200 meters, and continue skiing to Chamonix, adding 4 km to the journey.
The north face of the Aiguille du Midi ridge is the most concentrated location of the world’s extreme and steepest ski lines, like Mallory or Frendo Spur. They are so steep and dangerous that a fall means certain death.
Where to sleep in Chamonix Valley?
Well, it depends on your team composition, the length of the holiday, and what’s important.
If you’re, for instance, a family of beginners, you can save costs and stay in the village of Le Tour, where there is a secluded beginners’ area without the disturbances of fast skiers.
Beyond the beginners’ area, the entire space itself is primarily blue trails. There are also many ski-in options in the village. The downside is that the place is dead in the evening, and if you want some action, you’ll have to travel to Chamonix.
If you are a group with several levels of skiing, Les Houches, and particularly the Prarion lift area, is a great choice. This area has the highest number of ski-in/ski-out options in the valley, and the Prarion lift leads to the beginners’ learning area.
The location of Les Houches and its proximity to the fantastic Evasion area, included in the extended ski pass, is a plus. You can do this by skiing towards Saint Gervais, taking the tram down, a short inner ski bus ride, and going up via the Bettex gondola.
If you have a car, you can also drive to the Beauregard lift, which will take you to the Portes du Mont Blanc ski area with 100 or to Les Contamines ski resort. Both places have 100km of slopes and are a little over half an hour’s drive from the Prarion lift.
The village of Les Houches is the only place in the Chamonix Valley that has night skiing.
You’re probably asking yourself, what about staying in Chamonix? Well, if you’re coming for the weekend, indeed, Chamonix is a wonderful site for a short holiday due to its proximity to Geneva airport.
Chamonix is also the preferred destination for a week’s holiday for mixed groups of skiers and non-skiers who will not be bored in the lively town with its pedestrian streets and many attractions, which we will expand on later.
A good location to find accommodation on a budget in Chamonix is Chamonix Sud.
You will be close to 1 of the 3 bus hubs in Chamonix. You will also be close to the Aiguille du Midi cable car. You will be a long walk from the main nightlife spots thow.
The best location is around the triangle between Place Mont Blanc, the northern bus hub of Chamonix, La Folie Douce Hotel, 200 meters west, and Chamonix Central bus Hub which is 400 meters south of La Folie Douce Hotel. This area is where most of the apres ski and nightlife of Chamonix takes place.
For families, an excellent area to stay will be just north of the previous area, between the beginner slopes from the west and the river from the east. It is a quiet place,
Close to the sports centre and the ice rink included in the Mont Blanc Unlimited ski pass, And also a walking distance from the pedestrian centre of Chamonix.
What to do in Chamonix?
In Chamonix Centre, you will find a big pedestrian area.
It spreads from the train station west, as Ave Michel Croz,300 meters, and there you will cross the main st; it spreads 200 meters north as Joseph Vallot Street and 600m south as Dr Paccard street, named after the first who conquered the Mont Blanc.
You can find anything related to Alpinism and winter sports gear here, along with art galleries, cafes, restaurants and bars and even a big Casino on the east side of place Balmat.
You will arrive at a church square if you continue northwest from Place Balmat.
On the left, you will find the tourist info office. On the right to the church, you will find the Chamonix Guides company’ which arranges many winter activities like snowshoeing and the famous Valle Blanche skiing.
Basically, you can do here almost any winter activity.
The most famous attraction in Chamonix and a must-do for skiers and non-skiers alike is to visit the Aiguille du Midi top station.
High above the resplendent Chamonix Valley, the Aiguille du Midi offers an experience that’s truly second to none. Accessible via a thrilling cable car journey, it provides you with unparalleled views of the French Alps, including the breathtaking Mont Blanc.
For those daring enough, the “Step into the Void” glass box literally allows you to stand over a thousand-metre precipice.
At an altitude of 3842m, It used to be the highest lift station in the world. It is still today the highest vertical cablecar system with 2807m. It is absolutely the most impressive lift station we’ve been to, and we have been in many.
Round trip ticket to adult costs 75€, This is why we told you before to buy the Mont Blanc unlimited ski pass for beginners as well.
Another fantastic and educational attraction included in the extended ski pass is the Montenvers- Sea of Ice. We mentioned this before as the final part of the Vallee Blanche adventure.
For most people, you begin your journey behind the Chamonix train centre and ride the old cogwheel red train(opened in 1908!) to Montvenvers station(1913m) with great views of the sea of ice glacier and the lower part of Vallee Blanche.
Then you ride down the gondola and descend over 580 stairs to the bottom of the glacier. As you descend the stairs, you’ll notice markers on the canyon walls alongside you. These indicate the glacier’s height over the past 30 years, and you’ll soon realise how rapidly the rate of glacial retreat has accelerated in recent years. The Montenvers attraction costs 25€ for non-skiers.
The ice cave at the base of the Glacier has to be dug every year because the glacier moves about 70 meters yearly.
Chamonix apres ski and nightlife
As France’s oldest ski resort, Chamonix boasts a vibrant après-ski scene and buzzing nightlife that caters brilliantly to a crowd of spirited young adults. You will mainly meet French, Brits and Scandinavian crowds, but Chamonix is very much Cosmicl. There are 3 hubs for mixing your endorphins with some Booz.
Next to the train station is a good area for Apres-ski, with places like Chambre Neuf, Elevation, and Moo.
Another promising area that attracts many seasoners and locals is northwest of the Aiguille du Midi bottom station in Chamonix sud.
The best place to be after dinner is Rue des Mollins, or as we call it, the Drunkards’ Alley, in a good way:).
Opened on December 22, the Epsilon is a new place with brilliant decorations and two dance floors after 10.
Just next to it, The Cave is a recommended cocktail bar that metamorph into a nightclub as the alcohol flows. The venue is elegantly designed, offering an array of cosy seating areas and several levels to explore.
Next to the cave, you will find Moulin and La Soeur. Both are smaller places with a bit of underground fill and Techno music.
The backcourt of each of these nightclubs is a kind of connected chill-out area at the river bank.
Another place in Rue du Mullin, further down the alley, on the left side, is Bard. a sports bar with some bar games and many happy hours.
Drunkards’ Alley is a perfect bar-crawling location. Most of these places are open until 2 a.m.
Only 200 meters from the drunk’s alley, if you walk left on Avenue du Mont Blanc, you will arrive at Hotel La Folie Douce, standing in the location where club med used to be.
Folie Douce is undoubtedly the largest and most invested venue in Chamonix. Within this unique hotel developed by the well-known brand, the lobby transforms into a colossal club.
In addition to the lobby’s vast space, there’s another large area on the second floor, The Janssen, a grand and stylishly designed cocktail bar.
Entrance is complimentary, and the party continues until 2 a.m. on weekends and until 1 a.m. during the week. The hotel’s terrace also hosts daily après-ski parties, creating an atmosphere of unending celebration.
If you want to party all night, the only place in town is L’Amnesia, on Aiguille Du Midi Avenue.
Pros & Cons
Pros
- Dramatic and Fantastic views unique to Chamonix Valley.
- One of the best nightlife scenes among ski resorts.
- A bustling, beautiful, and intriguing town with plenty of activities for non-skiers.
- Easy access from Geneva by car, train or bus.
- The expanded ski pass includes the wonderful Evasion area, Aiguille du Midi, and more.
- An excellent site for advanced freeriders and the best for extreme freeriders.
Cons
- Small ski areas that are disconnected from each other.
- Limited slopes for beginners and intermediates near Chamonix.
- Skiing into the town is practically non-existent for most of the season.
- Almost no ski-in, ski-out options.
- Limited mountain restaurants of a decent standard in the Brevent-Flegere area.
Ski resorts video ratings for Chamonix
Before we’ll give you our excellent tips,
Here are our ratings for Chamonix as a destination for a week-long ski holiday,
Based on sleeping in Chamonix with the Mont Blanc unlimited ski pass:
Beginners: 6
Intermediate: 7
Advanced: 9
Snowboarders: 7.3
Freestylers: 6
Freeriders: 10
Apres Ski: 7.5
Nightlife: 9
Resort Charm: 9.5
Value for Money: 7.5
So, the ‘‘Ski Resorts video” total score for Chamonix is … 7.9
Insiders Tips
Our 1st tip is for burger lovers who also want to mingle. Poco Loco. This small and trendy spot, located in the heart of the pedestrian zone, serves divine burgers and features a communal table where everyone sits together. Be sure to arrive early; otherwise, you might find yourself in a rather lengthy queue.
If you are an intermediate to advanced skier or snowboarder who wants to use the extended ski pass well, we recommend coming with a car.
If you want to ski in Crans-Montana or use the 50% discount for the Verbier ski pass, this is the only practical way to get there.
It will also save you money on the way to Courmayeur, Italy, If you are 2+ in the car.
Another advantage is the skiing in the Evasion area.
Certainly, one can use the free shuttle to the Princess Lift in Megeve by ensuring a spot on the bus no later than 4:00 pm the day before. Yet, without a car, you’d genuinely miss out on exploring Les Portes du Mont Blanc and Les Contemines, both well worth a visit. If you’re coming with a car, book accommodation with parking, and make sure your car has winter tyres, as it’s mandatory in France.